My latest YouTube tutorial ‘Propagation: Divison’ is a demonstration on how to divide herbaceous perennials and grasses to gain further plants.
Propagation: This is a method of producing more plants either by seed, cuttings or division. These categories can be further split up to methods such as layering, semi ripe cuttings, etc.
Division is a simple and effective way to propagate plants especially as named above grasses and perennials as the more woody varieties of shrubs tend not to produce off shoots or form in clumps.
It is also recommend that after a number of years herbaceous perennials and grasses should be divided to prevent their clumps getting too large and becoming too competitive.
This can lead to a dense growth which can cause too much shading for flowers to be produced or putting all their energy into producing shoots.
By splitting up these clumps you are allowing the plant to receive more light and reducing the likelihood of competition therefore creating a more suitable environment for flowering.
By watching the tutorial you can develop an understanding of how the process of how division is carried out. It is simply by cutting your plant apart either by a sharp knife or a good spade.
Depending on the size and variety of the plant, quite a number of individual plants can be successfully propagated, providing that a good root run is kept.
The growing medium is of particular importance as you want something with plenty of pore space to allow the roots to develop and that is also free draining.
I recommend either using perlite or a fine grit but vermiculite is also another option although it won’t offer as much pore space but rather more heat.
After potting on your plants it is important also to provide them with enough heat over the winter months i.e don’t allow them to be exposed to frost.
A window sill or porch is ideally suited or indeed if you have the access to a polytunnel or glasshouse is also suitable. Just be careful with the amount of sun light they are exposed to as this can lead the young shoots being scorched.
Thanks once again for reading my latest blog and also hope you enjoyed my latest tutorial. As always feel free to get in contact if you have any questions or suggestions for a blog or tutorial in the future.
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To ensure a longer lasting flowering time frame dead heading should be regularly carried out on the roses, if not the rose will put its time and energy into producing and developing seeds instead of flowers.
It is important to make sure that time and effort is put in and it is done right, that the seed capsules are removed and that you are not just pulling off the petals.
3) Disease Control
The two most common diseases associated with roses are black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) and powdery mildew (Podosphaera pannosa).
Rose black spot is a fungus disease and is easily recognised with black markings on the leaves. It can cause an unsightly appearance on the roses and become quite serious if not treated.
Powdery mildew is another fungus disease that occurs on roses. Like the black spot it needs favorably weather conditions (humid) for it to develop.
For the treatment of mildew and black spot there are many different treatments available both chemical and non-chemical and greatly depends on how seriously effected the roses are and your preferred method.
If you would like to share your remedies post a comment or send a message on my Facebook page (A Horticulturist’s View) and I could put together a list of all the different tricks and tips.
To maximise your roses it is important to minimise the amount of diseases impacting on it.
4) Pest Control
The most common of all pests to attack the roses are the aphids (greenfly). It is quite easily recognised as a bright green insect like and tend to gather in large colonies on the rose
The aphid can have devastating effect on the roses causing a number of afflictions. From viruses, appearance, sap damage, heavy infestations can lead to shoot damage and damage to the flower.
Again there is a number of treatments available to treating aphid attacks on roses both chemical and non-chemical.
Natural predators such as ladybirds should be encouraged into your garden as both at the larvae adult stage attack the aphid therefore reducing their impact.
Another remedy I recently found out about is the use of garlic spray to prevent and control aphids as well as many other garden pests such as slugs having an impact on your plants and roses.
As you can imagine it takes a lot of energy to put on that show of flowers so it is important to give them a feed.
Not only whenever they are in flower but also when the roses are preparing to produce flowers.
A simply liquid feed will provide a quick boost to the roses but it is also important to provide a longer lasting fertiliser at least once a year if not twice.
Mulching will provide another source of feed and this should be carried out after flowering in autumn.
Keep an out for my YouTube tutorial on ‘Maintaining Roses’ in the next few days as well
As I mentioned above, I would love to hear about your different tips and tricks when it comes to controlling diseases and pests on the roses and all things roses.
I would appreciate some feedback and any ideas of blogs you would like to see me write in the future. Thanks once again for reading and I hope you enjoyed my latest piece.